Louis Vuitton’s Academy Museum Gala Looks: From Sculptural Triumphs To Safe Bets
Nicolas Ghesquière dressed 12 celebrities, including Louis Vuitton ambassadors and friends of the house, for Saturday evening’s Academy Museum Gala in Los Angeles. From architectural gowns to understated eveningwear, the looks demonstrated the range of his designs, although some were considerably more successful than others.
Geometric Glamour
Chase Infiniti was the clear standout in a custom Louis Vuitton black-and-white geometric bustier gown. The rigid, accordion-like pleats and alternating panels reminded me of the graphic constructions of Op Art, particularly the work of Victor Vasarely. There’s also something wonderfully architectural about the way the peplum projects from the waist before continuing into the skirt. It’s a remarkable piece of construction, as we have come to expect from the designer.
We’re accustomed to seeing Chase favour fresh-faced beauty looks and neutral makeup, so her La Beauté Louis Vuitton LV Rouge lipstick in 715 Monogram Infrarouge was a welcome surprise. That deep burgundy shade gave the look an unexpected edge.
Jewellery Takes Centre Stage
As the face of Louis Vuitton High Jewellery, it made perfect sense for Ana de Armas to make the Sirius necklace, featuring tourmaline, aquamarine, tanzanite, sapphire, emerald and diamonds, the centrepiece of her look. Matching earrings from the Louis Vuitton Mythica High Jewellery collection completed the set.
But I’m just as enamoured with her sculpted black velvet Louis Vuitton gown. The plunging neckline creates the perfect setting for those magnificent gemstones, while the curved bustier and flared skirt give the otherwise minimal design a beautiful silhouette. Nothing competes with the necklace, yet the dress is far from an afterthought.
Red Velvet Romance
Chloë Grace Moretz is usually among the more adventurous Louis Vuitton ambassadors, so I loved seeing her take a different, more refined approach in this red velvet Louis Vuitton bustier column gown.
The rich colour and softly structured neckline are all she needs. Two-carat diamond stud earrings and a diamond ear cuff from Louis Vuitton High Jewellery completed this refreshing change of pace.
Shoulder Statement
Léa Seydoux wearing black to this event was always going to be a safe bet, but I’m completely sold on the silhouette of her Louis Vuitton crêpe gown.
Those exaggerated, angular shoulders recall the sharp tailoring of the 1980s, particularly the work of Thierry Mugler, giving the otherwise classic gown a commanding shape. The plunging neckline softens that strong upper half, while the metallic belt introduces a welcome break in the black.
Radiance earrings featuring LV Monogram star-cut diamonds and the Splendeur ring in yellow gold and diamonds, set with a 5.05-carat ruby, completed her look.
Calla Lily Couture
Mariana Di Girolamo wore a custom Louis Vuitton black velvet bustier gown inspired by the calla lily. Did you spot the reference?
Once you do, you can fully appreciate how the sweeping turquoise satin lining recreates the flower’s curved spathe, while the black velvet provides the contrast needed to define its shape. Now I’m wondering whether another colour associated with calla lilies, perhaps yellow or pink, would have been equally beautiful.
Golden Armour
Wunmi Mosaku wore a metallic fringe-embroidered Louis Vuitton bustier gown that reminded me of ceremonial armour, with its overlapping gold embellishments and metallic detailing.
I love the texture and the way the fringe gives the look a less rigid finish. My only complaint is the footwear. A delicate sandal would have been so much better than the black pumps. Pure V earrings in white gold and diamonds from Louis Vuitton High Jewellery completed her look.
Taffeta And All
My first thought when I saw Da’Vine Joy Randolph in this white crêpe jersey Louis Vuitton gown was that taffeta will always be taffeta. But on this occasion, I’m not going to let my feelings about the fabric dull my enthusiasm.
She looks radiant. The off-the-shoulder neckline and fitted silhouette are beautiful on her, and the voluminous taffeta detail at the hips and sweeping train give the gown a sense of occasion. Even I can appreciate what the fabric contributes here.
Understated Glamour
Emmy Rossum, being the fashion girl that she is, gave us pure elegance in this black Louis Vuitton halter gown.
The jewellery-chain neckline is the detail that makes this look, and I love that her legendary curls were swept up to showcase it. The thigh-high slit and keyhole neckline provide a little drama.
Additional diamonds from the Louis Vuitton Pure V High Jewellery collection completed her look, although, again, I would have preferred sandals to the black pumps.
More Fun, Please
The sequinned embellishments on Alysa Liu’s Louis Vuitton gown are the only thing saving this look for me.
The cascading black sequins offer some visual interest, but the overall design feels too subdued for someone whose personal style is usually so expressive. I would have loved to see Alysa have more fun with her gala debut, especially when there was so much creative potential within this collection.
Lost In The Length
Sophie Thatcher’s gold lamé Louis Vuitton bustier column gown features a sculptural, tiered construction with an almost Elizabethan quality, recalling the exaggerated hips of court dress. However, the narrow skirt underneath doesn’t quite work for me. The length is particularly disappointing, as it makes the lower half feel awkward against the elaborate upper section.
Splendeur ruby and diamond earrings, a Destiny diamond bracelet and an Idylle Blossom ring in rose gold and diamonds completed her look.
Sculptural Elegance
Ava DuVernay gave us a rare departure from her usual red carpet silhouettes in this pale blue draped bustier Louis Vuitton gown, and I’m blown away.
The soft folds at the hips recall classical Greek drapery, while the fitted bodice and off-the-shoulder sleeves add to the romance of it all. Now that we’ve seen her in this silhouette, I would love for her to explore it more often.
Back To What Works
After his denim dilemma in Dior earlier this week, Jack O’Connell returned to classic tailoring in a black monogram single-breasted Louis Vuitton tuxedo.
The subtle pattern gives the suit some interest, while the all-black styling keeps everything looking sharp. Black Westminster Derbies and a Louis Vuitton Monterey Automatic 39mm watch in yellow gold with a black leather strap completed his look.
This is so much better from Jack. There is absolutely nothing wrong with sticking to what works best.
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