Menswear Moves From Bold Colour to Classic Tailoring This Week
Menswear had plenty of range this week, moving from bold colour in San Sebastián to oversized tailoring in London, classic eveningwear and a few familiar styling ideas making another appearance. Here are the looks that caught my eye.
Tenders Loving Care San Sebastián Film Festival Screening
Diego Calva embraced colour in a Willy Chavarria Spring 2027 periwinkle-blue double-breasted suit that already had plenty of personality, but keeping the pale yellow shirt was what really sold me. The relaxed trousers and elongated jacket are very much in Diego’s wheelhouse, and I’m always happy to see men who aren’t afraid of colour.
La Bola Negra San Sebastián Film Festival Premiere
Javier Calvo and Javier Ambrossi accompanied their La Bola Negra co-star Penélope Cruz, with both wearing Chanel. It’s not often we see the house represented in menswear, unless it is house ambassadors Pedro Pascal and A$AP Rocky, but I like how their looks are both very formal yet completely different. I’m not one to overlook a shawl-collar tux, or favour lighter trousers with a dark jacket, but I’m leaning towards the fresh, relaxed feel of Ambrossi’s look here.
Miguel Bernardeau wore Loewe, and I immediately clocked the turned-up monogrammed cuff we saw on Riz Ahmed at the Emmys. It’s such a small detail, but against an otherwise classic grey suit, white shirt and black tie, it becomes the talking point. I suspect this won’t be the last time we see it.
Digger Royal Global Premiere
Speaking of Riz Ahmed, the actor was in London wearing a Givenchy by Sarah Burton Spring 2027 suit, continuing his love for oversized silhouettes. The proportions are generous, to say the least, but they work. Riz appears to be committed to this shape for the time being.
Tom Cruise kept things traditional in a Giorgio Armani Made to Measure midnight-blue, peak-lapel tuxedo. After all the experimentation elsewhere in this roundup, there’s something to be said for simply putting on an impeccably fitted tuxedo and calling it a night. I wasn’t as enamoured with the footwear.
Vogue World Milano
Michele Morrone was, of course, in Dolce & Gabbana last night. No one will be surprised about that, nor will you be surprised to see how good he looks in a satin suit. Everything, including the attitude and the sunglasses, feels entirely on brand for him.
Antonio Marras Spring 2027 Show
If you are yet to see the Antonio Marras Spring 2027 show, Adrien Brody was in attendance wearing a preview look from the runway collection for the photocall. This kind of layered, slightly rugged styling isn’t the norm for Adrien, but it is always refreshing to see him step outside his usual impeccably tailored box.
The Deputy LA screening
I did say recently that we were going to see more of the tonal shirt-and-tie combination from Loewe, and here it is again. Matt Sukkar wore the idea in vivid red, allowing the colour to provide the contrast against his black suit. I still think this is going to become one of the menswear styling tricks we will continue to see.
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