04.07.12

Ulyana Sergeenko Fall 2012 Couture

When I arrived at the Théâtre Marigny in Paris yesterday afternoon for the Ulyana Sergeenko Fall 2012 Couture show, I thought it was an outside presentation.

That’s because many of the beautiful women waiting outside to see the show were wearing pieces from the designer’s collection which included her signature voluminous printed maxi skirts worn over a knit sweater and signature head scarves or wool hats.

For her first runway show during Paris Fashion Week, the Russian designer/street-style star certainly pulled in a crowd of major industry players like Grace Coddington, Carine Roitfeld, Tim Blanks, Anna Dello Russo and Patrick Demarchelier.

With a line-up of top models, the show started with a military-style coat before moving onto the designer’s signature look I mentioned above.

Apron dresses, oversized coats, capes, fur-lined parkas, boyish jodhpurs, a chic white suit, folk jackets, sweaters paired with fitted pants, an uber-cute floral embroidered mini dress styled with red-hot knee-boots and long-sleeve playsuits – one with a military sash – added a playfulness to this collection with plenty of Russian references.

The Russianness came through via the accessories, which included military hats, lace helmet, medals of honour, military boots, babushkas and big furry hats.

Other accessories included back packs, hand-carved wooden heels, embroidered headbands and epaulettes, lace-covered flasks, shakos, clutches and gloves.

We saw a few evening looks. The bright red satin gown was the standout piece, but the pretty black lace dress was my favourite.

Natalia Vodianova, the Russian supermodel and a Ulyana Sergeenko client, fittingly closed the show in a floor-sweeping black coat styled with a floral embroidered tulle veil.

It will be interesting to see if the exposure of Paris Fashion Week will push Ulyana’s signature style into the mainstream.  Is Hollywood ready for a collection which mixes military, fantasy and femininity?

Who I See Wearing This Collection: Nicole Kidman, Amber Heard, Natalia Vodianova and several Russian socialites.

Credit: Getty & Back pack images belong to Red Carpet Fashion Awards

08.03.12

Elie Saab Fall 2012

After four weeks of non-stop fashion with awards season wedged in between, my Fall 2012 season ended with the King, Elie Saab.

On a glamorous colour palette of emerald green, gold, black, slate grey and ivory, the designer presented a lot less gowns than we are used to for Fall 2012.

Many of you wanted to see something new, so he kick-started the presentation with Karlie Kloss sporting blunt-cut bangs and wearing a tweed skirt suit with a peplum waist.

Who knew tweed could look so sexy? Apparently Karlie knew.

A succession of power-dressing daywear followed, fitted bi-colour dresses with structural silhouettes, architectural belted wool coats, loose-fitting pants paired with fur coats, fluted skirts, butterfly blouses and jumpsuits, one with sexy cobweb-like panels, the other paired with a very dramatic cape.

Some printed looks followed before the moody turn from glamorous to glitzy with a parade of gorgeous gowns; his speciality.

The emerald-green and the gold gowns really caught my eye, but I wouldn’t be disappointed to see any of them hit the red carpet.

I think Mr Saab should save the long-sleeve slate-grey gown with the thigh-high split for Ms Jolie, and, seeing how breathtaking Katie Holmes looks in Mr Saab’s designs, I’m putting the emerald-green gown on my wish list for her.

Key accessories included the croc, leather, jewelled and fur-accented bags and clutches alongside ankle boots and pointy-toe pumps.

If you didn’t watch the show live yesterday, you can catch the replay over at ElieSaab.com.

Front Row: Rosario Dawson and Buzz Aldrin

Who I See Wearing This Collection: Cameron Diaz, Kate Winslet, Kate Beckinsale, Keira Knightley, Sarah Jessica Parker, Hilary Swank, Kirsten Dunst, Michelle Williams, Blake Lively, Cate Blanchett, Marion Cotillard, Zoe Saldana, Anna Friel, Dita von Teese, Princess Beatrice, Catherine, Duchess of Cambridge, Jessica Chastain, Rosie Huntington-Whiteley, Fan Bing Bing, Gwyneth Paltrow and Halle Berry

Credit: Getty

07.03.12

Alexander McQueen Fall 2012

The one thing I love about an Alexander McQueen show is that you can expect the unexpected.

In a dark-lit room with the fibre optic lights hanging from the ceiling, the first model stormed the runway wearing an ivory jacquard coat with a Mongolian fur collar.

As the show progressed, the feminine, futuristic looks became more explosive as they pulsated down the runway.

We saw coats, capes, jackets and skirts adorned with feathers, fur pom poms, Mongolian fur and laser-cut pony skin on leather.

One look had a degraded effect of mink, goat fur and ostrich feathers, which was paired with knee-high black mink-trimmed boots.

The pretty dresses with silver dandelion embroideries seem made for Florence Welch.

A selection of fuchsia looks followed which had metal and enamel embroideries shaped into blossoms with an atelier-like precision.

The finale looks sang ‘hello Lady Gaga’ very loudly. Even though the singer is petite, I can see her wearing the black shaved organza gown.

Key accessories included visors, which I’m sure we will see Bryan Boy wearing next fashion week, heel-less shoes and metal waistbands.

We may not get to see the majority of our favourite looks on the red carpet, it will be exciting to see who will get an opportunity to wear the first look.

Who are you hedging your bets on?

Front Row: Salma Hayek and Anna Wintour

Who I See Wearing This Collection: Lady Gaga, Florence Welch, Cate Blanchett, Tilda Swinton, Rose Byrne, Daphne Guinness and Anne Hathaway

Credit: Style.com

07.03.12

Pierre Balmain Fall 2012

Pierre Balmain’s Fall 2012 collection was presented in a grand venue during Paris Fashion Week on Monday.

The diffusion line to the Balmain offers the same edgy, rocker chic pieces as the mainline collection, but in a less studded, more youthful and affordable way.

On a colour palette of black, white and grey, the second season serves up biker jackets, blouses, tailored blazers with structured shoulders, shearling lined coats, chiffon printed tops, body conscious designs and boyish basics with feminine accents.

We do see micro studs on a wool coat, tunics and skinny pants for those who really want to feel like a rock star.

The new collection also has an accompanying film inspired by French and Italian films of the last fifties / early sixties starring Melissa Stasiuk alongside male model Adrien Sahores.

Credit: Getty

07.03.12

Paco Rabanne Fall 2012

In his second season as creative director at Paco Rabanne, Manish Arora went back into the archives for inspiration for this Fall 2012 collection.

He presented an array of the founder’s signature drop-waist cocktail dresses, pant suits, jumpsuits with keyhole details and low-slung pants alongside sweaters, cardigans and oversized coats.

The mini metallic dress, designed in 1969 and worn by Brigitte Bardot and shot by David Bailey, was re-edited, along with a number of new variations.

In the midst of all the gold, silver, chainmail and discs which are house signatures, we also saw some electric blue, black, leather and pony skin.

Key accessories included ankle boots with gold heels, t-bar sandals and the iconic ‘le 69’ bag, which was re-edited.

Lady Gaga was the first to wear the Spring 2012 collection, followed by Nicole Richie.

I hope to see more of this wearable collection on the red carpet.

Front Row: Daphne Guinness and Anna Dello Russo

Who I See Wearing This Collection: Katy Perry, Anna Paquin, Rihanna, Ciara, Nicki Minaj, Jessie J, Kylie Minogue and Fergie

Credit: Style.com

06.03.12

Chloé Fall 2012

Despite this being a Fall 2012 collection, Clare Waight Keller presented a lot of pastel hues to keep us looking effortless and carefree whilst wearing Chloé during the winter months.

Models with barely-there makeup and naturally teased tresses took to the runway wearing relaxed silhouettes.

Parisian chic meets an easy English attitude by combining parka jackets with silk scarf blouses, fitted pants, jogging-style pants or boyfriend culottes.

Oversized military coats, luxurious knitwear, hooded ponchos, knee-length skirts, quilted jackets, lace tops, silk shirts and drop-waist dresses were presented for daywear.

For evening, we saw feminine lace frocks and a black silk cut-out jumpsuit.

Since posting my pictures of the Chloé bags on Instagram and twitter the three-in-one ‘Lucy’ bag and oversized pochettes have received such a positive reaction that I’m sure they will become the must-have pieces of the Fall season.

Other key accessories included pumps and flatforms with ankle straps in suede and leather.

Who I See Wearing This Collection: Rachel Bilson, Kate Bosworth, Elizabeth Olsen, Rose Byrne, Charlize Theron, Cameron Diaz, Felicity Jones, Kate Beckinsale, Zoe Saldana, Thandie Newton and Kirsten Dunst

Credit: Style.com & bag pictures belong to RCFA