Designer Debut of 2025 – Glenn Martens for Maison Margiela

2025 felt like the year the fashion industry collectively hit shuffle. Creative director musical chairs brought a wave of debuts, fresh ambassadorships, and sharp pivots in identity—but it was Glenn Martens at Maison Margiela who truly stood apart. Rather than flooding the red carpet, Martens exercised restraint, proving that impact doesn’t require excess.

His vision ranged from the beautifully strange—Cate Blanchett’s skirt printed with nature morte collages and finished with wing appliqué—to the lyrical, via Lisa’s butterfly-adorned look. Anya Taylor-Joy delivered ethereal elegance, while Sigourney Weaver’s custom design showed thoughtful maturity and precision. Each appearance felt purposeful, distinct, and rooted in Margiela’s codes.

I fully expected Jonathan Anderson to take this on volume alone with Dior, but Martens proved that less really was more. His Margiela debut.

Runners-up: Matthieu Blazy for Chanel; Pierpaolo Piccioli for Balenciaga; Demna for Gucci; and Jonathan Anderson for Dior.

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